Questions about power
May 16th, 2008Hi all. These questions were asked in the vandwellers forum, but I’ll copy my answer here for others to use.
— In VanDwellers“seb_xplizit” wrote:
>
> Hey
>
> I’m thinking about my future power setup and would love some feedback
> from you guys
Hi Seb.
Okay first things first, I’ll talk about your needs. You expressed them as:
>”I would like to be able to run/charge my laptop for 4-5 hours a day,
>while listening to music on the van’s stereo. And also charge digital
>camera batteries, my phone and a portable mp3 player every few days.
>All this, bearing in mind I won’t always be driving all that much.”
Now that won’t be much power draw at all. Your lap top will be the main power draw. Radios and sound reproduction equipment don’t use much power. Nor does recharging most batteries.
The great thing about your power requirements here is that it can almost all be done from 12 volts without having to convert it to 240 / 110 volts. Take a look at my page at: http://www.carliving.info/mycampervan/gizmosgadgets.htm
I use two voltage converters that convert 12 volt to 18 volt for my laptop computer, and a straight cigarette plug to power things like my printer. I brought a Gameboy power converter to supply 2000 milliamps / 2 amps of power to my small multimedia player.
If you were driving a bit I would say that your power needs could be met with a simple dual battery system with an isolator that disconnects the secondary battery when the voltage gets too low. It does not sound like your power needs will be massive. I think an 85 to 100 Amp hour battery will take care of them adequately with a nice surplus. That is if you can charge it daily. A typical alternator will produce about 100-200 watts of power. That’s a lot of power. Drive for an hour and your battery will probably be fully charged. Or idle for an hour and you should get the same result. But unless you will be driving anyway, this is a bad way to charge your batteries.
Solar panels are expensive. For a powerful one you could pay for enough fuel to run a car for a year or more typically. Or you could buy a generator and fuel for it for years.
But solar panels are quiet. They will last typically 20-30 years. They are unobtrusive. You can roof mount them and never have to do anything buy clean them now and then.
You also asked:
>”So… How many/what power deep cycle batteries do you think I’ll need?
>How powerful an inverter? I assume getting an inverter that’s too big
>for my needs will be counter-productive and drain the batteries >faster?”
As mentioned, I think 85-100 Amp hours should be plenty for you. You may be able to do what you need without a generator. Yeah, the bigger the inverter, the quicker it will drain your batteries.
I would suggest that you buy an affordable solar / wind turbine voltage controller to control your dual battery set up. Just use the alternator instead of a solar panel or wind turbine. Basically power comes in to the controller, which feeds it to your deep cycle battery. It also regulates the power coming out of your deep cycle so you don’t flatten that. Then if you get a solar panel later, you can plug that into the PV controller. It works out better than buying a dual battery isolator in the long run.
You asked:
>”Can I make it so that when the engine is off, the 12V cigarette
>lighter sockets, the indoor lights and the stereo work off the deep
>cycle batteries rather than the starter battery?”
Yes, and it is not too difficult. The problem with this is that most cars and vans use the car body as a negative wire. So you may have to muck around wiring in new circuits and wiring to lights and cigarette outlets. I can explain that in more detail if you like.
>Can I have a gauge to see how much juice is left in the respective
>batteries?
Yes, as mentioned by others these can be cheaply brought. I would suggest you take a look at http://www.carliving.info/12volt/index.htmlwhich will give you an idea of what you can set up. One panel I brought for $75 Australia plus delivery came with a battery gauge, 3 fused circuits and a cigarette plug outlet.
>Would it seem like a god idea to have a plug so I can plug in at
>people’s houses, RV parks and campsites to charge the batteries and be
>able to use the laptop, music etc without touching the batteries?
Yes of course. You’re from Europe right? They use a standard 10 watt plug there that’s not like your house power plug. The nice thing is that you can normally buy one from a caravan supplies shop that has a power board at the end. Typically they come with about 20-30 metre cable and about 4-6 outlets at the end. It does not look as snazzy as an external plug on your van, but it’s a lot cheaper and works just as well. Then you can plug in transformers to run your devices. Or plug in a battery charger for your 12 volt system. Or both.
>And finally, how much is a system such as this likely to cost
>(including fitting)?
Good question.
In Australian dollars I guess you are looking at:
85-100 amp hour deep cycle battery $100-120 (more expensive than USA)
Redarc dual battery isolator $85.
Installation of the battery and battery isolator will take 1 hour or less, and should cost no more than $70 to install provided you have the battery and isolator kit.
Or do it yourself. I have instructions here:
http://www.carliving.info/isolator/index.html
Control panel with battery gauge and cigarette outlet $80.
One into 3 cigarette outlet. $5 (yeah, very cheap)
Typical in car laptop power supply from ebay with delivery $30.
Installation of a power control panel. gain, 1 hour labour by an auto electrician or do it yourself.
Good quality solar power regulator - $80-125. But if you buy one you won’t need to buy an fit a battery isolator.
Solar panel - Usually about $10 or less per watt.
Typically about $360 for a 45 watt panel. Some times you will get lucky and get one around 50-65 watts cheaper per watt. Generally the less wattage, the more you pay per watt.
Now, my set up.
I have 3 x 64 watt Unisolar panels, and 1 x 80 watt panel on my main system which feeds into 2 x 100 Amp hour AGM (Active Glass Matt) deep cycle batteries. This provides enough power to run a 42 litre fridge, the laptop for 10 hours during sunlight hours and various LED lights and small appliances. Generally the fridge is not powered on at night.
I have a second power system that has 1 x 20 and 1 x 15 watt panels that power 5 vent fans and feed excess power into an 8 amp hour sealed lead battery that powers two of the fans at night. Those two fans vent the back of the fridge. This keeps it cool even when it is not powered on.
I hope I answered all of your questions and more.
Cheers,
Romana S.